#121 - spring break...

... is great.
just came back from a sweet day at hale'iwa today. since i've been on break for last week and this week i've been scoping out the north shore breaks one by one, of course, it's been kinda small, but that's okay because the weather's been awesome. which means that the water's been super glassy and even when there's no waves it's great to be out there in the ocean. i'm getting kinda spoiled though, i can't go down to white plains anymore, that water's seems so crappy compared to up north, and on the weekends it feel so crowded because there's not a lot of people out during the workday.

surf was up just a little bit today, the sets were pretty sweet, head high for me (but not for most people, i guess), super clean and glassy. i love it when you're on a wave and you can see all the way down to the reef heads beneath your board, that's the perfect kinda wave. there were some friendly people out there today too, it was a long wait between sets so there was some chatting going on, it's fun to meet people out there, all kinds of people surf, especially at hale'iwa it's cool to hear people's stories about how they're on vacation, or skipping work, or took like a week off of life to rent a house and live up north for a bit, cool.

i'd say one of the best things about going surfing though is how you feel for the rest of the day. i mean, surfing and being out in the ocean on a perfect day is pretty sweet, but it's not all downhill once you leave the beach. afterward you feel completely relaxed, like you've got a new perspective. plus you're kinda tired, and when you lie back a bit you can still feel the waves under you. and the sun makes you happy and sleepy at the same time too. it's a nice place to be. well, gotta soak it all up right now because next week it's back to it for like 8 weeks straight without a holiday! i don't know how you 12-month workers do it... i'd die without my spring breaks.