#95 - make-up weather

finally! the last week of winter break is making up for the first two weeks of crappy weather. but this week it's been all sun, sand, and surf. i've been surfing every day since the sun came out and it's been great. i'm waking up early (relatively) which is a really good thing because the clear blue skies are only lasting half a day and then when i get back home that's when the clouds roll in. no pics of the surf today, but yesterday, after a sweet day a chun's i decided to give some of those haleiwa shrimp trucks a try. there was giovanni's and hono's, but they both only had four different dishes so i went with the garlic shrimp from hono's (i've never heard of hono's before, whereas giovanni's is pretty famous, but they didn't have garlic shrimp). it was $12 and not in any way worth it. haha, well, except for the fact that i spent the day on the north shore so i'd better have gotten a shrimp plate for lunch.


today a little bit more of the same thing, weather was great, i thought the surf would be a little too big for me so i went to ali'i today. but it was perfect! clean, glassy, overhead on the sets but so clean that they were way easy to catch. and it wasn't all that crowded either, so i got to catch a lot. i even did some of that, y'know, rip a turn on the top of the crest, flick some white-water off it, and then ride back down on top of the curl... what do you call it? whatever, doing it is damn fun! i even caught a little barrel for a bit, sweet.

well, looks like surf will be up tomorrow in the "too big for me" range so i'll have to find something else to do, heck, if the weather's good again maybe i'll just go to watch the big ones, gotta savor my last two days of freedom...

PS - almost forgot! while i was sitting out in the water at ali'i today i saw some humpback whales jumping off in the distance! whoa, that's the first time i've actually seen whales (all the other times someone yelled "whale!" and i'd look and see a splash and then lie and say "oh yeah, cool, whale"). it was cool, and a great bonus to my surfing day. but i think the best bonus after a day at the beach is when you're lying in bed that night and you feel the waves rolling under you. that's the coolest! and then when you close your eyes you see those salt-water ridges rolling toward you in long walls and then feel it rise up under you... neat.