#164 - seal!

quick post:

today i went surfing at laniakea on north shore, it was super tiny but that was kinda good because that made it less crowded (plus the weather was super nice so it was just great to be out there on the water), had to wait a LONG ass time for the sets but when they came in it was a good head-high on the biggest ones (well, head-high for me, which is a lot less on some other people). anyway, so there were just maybe three or four of us out there and it was pretty chill, just sitting and waiting for the waves to come. i started seeing some splashing and a couple of schools of fish running, but didn't think too much of it because i always see a lot of turtles there (and they scare the crap outta me when they pop up outta nowhere). i remember catching one wave though and as i looked back into it there was a whole school of fish (pretty good sized fish, big enough to pan fry whatever it was) riding the wave, looking like they're running from something. so that freaked me out and i ate it on the wave, ha.

but so there's like 3-4 of us sitting out there and all of a sudden there's a big mound of brown came up in the water like 20 yards in front of us. it looked like a big turtle coming up for air but my new russian surfing buddy (haha, i keep running into this guy out surfing over here) said it was something else, but he didn't know the word... and finally i'm like, "what? a seal?!" and he said "SEAL!" then the other guy out there was like "you saw a seal here? are you sure?" and ruskie says "trust me, i saw face."

whoa. that was cool.