it's hard to keep in mind, sometimes, the reasons behind why you live your life the way you do. it's very easy to doubt and to re-analyze your actions and second-guess your thoughts as well. especially when you're on vacation... haha, too much time to be thinking about stuff maybe. luckily, it's also pretty easy to remind yourself about where your life has been and where it's headed. for me this week, it was as simple as driving out to north shore: how can you drive over that mountain, see haleiwa and the ocean ahead of you and not be reminded how lucky you are to live in hawai'i?
anyway, not wanting to get too deep or introspective right now, i'll just say i had a great christmas day. it was a really long one, felt like three separate days. i woke up super early to go to chruch in the morning (i never go to the 7am mass but thought i would on christmas because there's no evening mass, the early morning would be a lot cooler and less crowded, and simply because i've just never been to it), made some port. sausage and eggs for breakfast, then drove up to north shore for surfing at haleiwa. it was a really nice day, mostly clear blue skies, cold water but clean waves, tons of people in the water but lots of space on the waves for everyone (as you can see on the set above). pretty sweet. then make some potatoes to take to dinner at my aunt's house. okay, well, it really wasn't that long of a day, but it just felt like three different days i guess because of the three very different activities and lots of time inbetween each one. plus i had to get dressed three different times so i guess that makes it feel like three different days.
anyway, like i was saying, it's pretty easy to remember the good things when you give yourself some time to goo and find them. it's also good to create situations that help you remember those reasons as well. for example, now i keep my board straps in my car to remind myself not to forget to make time for the beach and for going surfing, it's my self-therapy technique. and surfing on christmas? where else could you do that?
AI, AI, Ai REDO
2 weeks ago
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